When Eleven Madison Park announced that they would switch to a plant-based restaurant, a lot of people could not believe it, thinking that it would be a mistake. I was not one of them. Don’t get me wrong: I am a non-vegetarian, but also appreciate a good vegetarian or vegan meal. I think that there is a place for everybody’s choice and sometimes the label put on something seems to stoke a fire, even in the culinary world. Think about it: a margarita pizza is vegetarian. Would people react the same way if you were asking the to grab a vegetarian pizza rather than just a pizza? I do not think so. There is this sort of stigma around vegetarianism and veganism that will not stop amazing me, me, who is not thinking about giving up eating meat of fish. So, as it was our wedding anniversary, and my wife Jodi being vegetarian, we decided to treat ourselves to a plant based dinner at Eleven Madison Park. We arrived right before they started service for dinner and were able to see the briefing of the staff in the impressive dining room, that finished with everyone shouting “Oui” (yes in French), that is also what they shout in the kitchen when a new order is read.
We started off the meal with a cocktail: the Watermelon (made with orange, elderflower, strawberry and brut rose) for Jodi and Pistachio cocktail for me (made with Bourbon, Palo Cortado Sherry, toasted coconut, coffee, lemon and a banana leaf - no pistachio, so I guess the name came from the color).
Then, the 9 course Spring menu started with asparagus in variations (poached in anise Hyssop, fried - that tempura on seaweed was superb - and steamed - there was a small dumpling in the bottom of the cup, hidden by a disc made of asparagus, that was delicious).
Then we got Tonburi that are dried seeds from Japan that are also called “land caviar”. Crunchy, with a taste close to broccoli, it was served with baby lettuce, a horseradish cream and a beautiful radish tostada (you spread the Tonburi on the tostada in fact).
Then it was time to have a glass of wine. I chose a glass of Sauternes from Bordeaux, a Chateau d’Yquem 1997. Sweet, perfect with the vegetables.
Next was a bread course that was a laminated bread with morel butter. The morel butter was quite good and looked amazing, but I admit that that bread was definitely the star. So I got seconds and refrained myself when they asked if I wanted more! It was crispy on the outside, with a sourdough taste, the center being just underdone but in a good way.
Few minutes later came the blistered fava beans served with green chickpeas and sorrel. I loved it, fava beans being one of my favorites, although, not really something I see often on a menu.
After that, we had peas that were glazed with brown rice, and served with coconut and nepitella, a Mediterranean herb used in Italian cuisine, also known as calamint. This was the only dish that I thought was too salty for me.
Then a cart came on the left side of the table and they prepared the Fresh tofu dish in front of us. They get their fresh tofu from one of the oldest tofu houses in New York City and you could tell it was freshly made: it was silky, literally melting in my mouth. Even ultra soft store bought tofu does not have this texture. They prepared it with artichokes, arugula and green garlic.
The next dish was Morels, served with braised seitan, spinach and Spring onion. I never liked seitan, but this dish was superb, earthy, with a nice crunch from the seitan.
The last dish before dessert was the squash that was prepared table side. The squash was sitting on a corn masa that gave a nice texture to the perfectly cooked zucchini squash. It was accompanied by a poblano pepper and coriander blooms on top, and they added a roasted pepper jus at the end.
The first dessert was a chamomile ice cream sandwich with fennel pollen.
The last dish was a variation on strawberry, one being a strawberry on skewer and the other one as an ice cream, with cherry blossom and rose.
And they offered us some drinks: apple cider for Jodi and fortified wine with elderflower for me.
I should mention our tour of the kitchen: this is a huge place, with north of 50 people in there, very organized, focused on the task assigned to them to such a point that it is pretty quiet in there considering the number of staff. And it is very clean, making me think about the state of my kitchen after I cook...What was great was to see them prepare the cold dishes, using tweezers with such a precision and artistry that I was mesmerized. And, as we were there, they made a gin-rhubarb drink for us (without gin for Jodi), with Brooklyn Gin.
Overall we had a great experience at Eleven Madison Park. The new menu is different, quite creative and beautifully plated. At the end of the evening, I was full and did not miss not having any meat of fish. Is it worth the price? Well, it is a bit pricey and I guess you pay for the experience and dining in one of the best restaurants in the world. Know that they change their menu 4 times a year to follow the seasons (but not following the calendar of seasons - for instance, the Summer menu will come on July 12) , so, going several times within the same season, you will probably get the same dishes.
Enjoy (I did)!
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Eleven Madison Park - 11 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10010