My last visit at Le Rivage was more than 10 years ago. I never went back because of our experience there was not great. So, when I received an invite, I was a bit surprised, but excited to try the menu from Chef David Cámara, who took over the kitchen in May last year. Chef Cámara with his impressive culinary experience, succeeded Chef and owner Paul Denamiel and decided to put his own touches to the family recipes from Chef Denamiel. The menu for sure is classic with dishes like escargots, soupe a l’oignon or seared foie gras that was a special that evening. I did not hesitate to try their frog legs that were prepared with garlic, parsley and butter (aka persillade), the same way escargots are. Frog legs are not that common on French restaurant menus, so, whenever I can order them, I do. And I was not disappointed: the frog legs had a good size and perfectly cooked, smothered by that persillade, that I also enjoyed with bread. Another classic entree well executed is their paté de campagne that had a perfect texture, and a robust flavor. It was accompanied by cornichons and moutarde a l’ancienne, as any paté should.

Where I was really excited is when they told me that the Chef made a cassoulet for the occasion. Cassoulet is a peasant dish that is made with beans, duck confit, sausage and pork belly. Slow cooked, they often have it as a special, better served the next day. I love this dish and was really looking forward to it, knowing that Chef Cámara participated in the famous D’Artagnan Cassoulet War three weeks ago. He did not win but apparently had fun participating. The cassoulet came pretty hot, still bubbling from the high temperature of the oven. Savory, meaty and very comforting, it was simply delicious, a perfect entree for a cold day. A must have if they propose it!

They also have an amazing gnocchi a la Parisienne that is made with Black Truffle and Comté Cheese. Rich, decadent, these gnocchi were soft and pillowy. Delicious.

Gnocchi a la Parisienne at Le Rivage in NYC, NY

Of course, I could not leave without trying their desserts. I guess it was my lucky day because the special was baba au rhum, a yeast cake soaked with rum, topped with whipped cream and fruits. The secret for a good baba is the density of the cake that needs to be airy, and of course, well imbibed in alcohol. And I guess they knew that secret as it was perfectly made. The baba reminded me when I was a kid in France and had it for snack, when it was sold in individual packets at the supermarket. Another great dessert was the ile flottante, a dessert that seems to make its way in French restaurants this days as it was my third in less than two months, but the best. Why? First, the egg whites were light and firm, laid on top of a succulent creme anglaise (vanilla custard) that I could have eaten on its own, being rich, velvety and not too sweet. Another must have.

I should mention their drinks: they have absinthe (I chose the Grande Absente that is 69 degrees proof), an anise-derived spirit made with plants that is served at Le Rivage the traditional French way, by dripping water on a sugar cube that is placed on a slotted spoon, so the water would mix with the alcohol (I was so excited by the way that I forgot to press record when I thought I was taking a video!!!). They also have mocktails like the French martini with citrus botanicals spirit, casis, pineapple and vamilla syrup, that was just ok for me. And of course, they offer digestives, like the poor Prisonniere, an eau de vie or clear, colourless pear brandy that is produced by means of fermentation and double distillation, perfect for digestion, especially after such a feast (they have an apple one as well).

So, this visit changed my mind and I am now considering Le Rivage on top of my list of French restaurants in New York. Not because the meal was complimentary, but truly because it was amazing. Chef Cámara succeeded in crafting a classic French menu, with personal touches that did not betray the spirit of the French tradition.

Enjoy (I did)!

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Le Rivage - 340 W 46th St, New York, NY 10036

Le Rivage, French restaurant in NYC, NY

I Just Want To Eat!