Each time we go to Philadelphia, we treat ourselves at Vetri cucina, the amazing restaurant of Chef Marc Vetri who is one of Philly’s top chefs. Going to Vetri is such an experience: located in a townhouse, it is as if you were invited to someone’s house. The decor is warm and the perfect setting for an intimate dinner where you will be able to hear your conversation, even if there is music in the background (well, Jodi noticed the music, I did not!).
They offer a four course tasting menu staring with an antipasto, pasta, secondi and dolci (dessert), each section proposing several choices, some vegetarian and some not.
To greet us, they brought us a house cocktail made with Spritz and Prosecco. Light and refreshing on a very hot day. And as it was hot, I decided to accompany my meal with a glass of Rosé, La Spineta Toscana Rosato 2021 “Il rose di Casanova” (from Tuscany).
Before the antipasti, they brought us an amuse-bouche and I admit that the description being so precise, I do not remember what it was! Vegetarian for Jodi: it was a heirloom tomato tart with a roasted pepper that was not hot at all..
And for me an oyster from Cape May with a mignonette on top that I do not remember how it was made…And there was a little something made with the same kind of pepper Jodi had next to it.
For her antipasti, Jodi chose the sweet onion crepe, the only appetizer that they kept on the menu for years and that she has each time we dine at Vetri. This is a succulent take on a French onion soup where the onions are cooked for more than 10 hours, giving them that scrumptious sweetness. It is made with truffle and topped with a parmesan fonduta.
On my side, I got the grilled octopus that was served with melon, buttermilk, a sumac chili crisp and an 18 year old balsamic vinegar. The octopus was perfectly cooked, nicely charred on the outside and not chewy. I loved the contrast of the buttermilk that counterbalanced the acidity and sweetness of the vinegar, the melon giving a summer touch to the dish.
Next was the pasta course. Jodi ordered the classic split that is composed of two different pasta: a spinach gnocchi with ricotta salata and brown butter, and an almond tortellini with truffle and parmesan. On my side, I got the sheep milk ricotta mezzaluna with chanterelles, cherries and pistachio. They also brought us, compliment of the chef, the pappardelle aglio e olio with zucchini. As the dishes made it to the table, we got the fantastic aroma of the brown butter that just made us want to dig right away. Everything was succulent, the pasta being perfectly made and cooked, even the spinach gnocchi blew me away although I am not a huge fan of spinach. The ricotta mezzaluna was simply delicious, the ricotta not being the most tasteful cheese, but, with the cherries that added some sweetness, the earthiness of the mushrooms and the nuttiness of the pistachio and brown butter, it all balanced quite well. Another favorite was the almond tortellini: I could have had another full dish of it. I loved the little crunch from the small pieces of almond in the filling and there was, again, that use of the brown butter that elevated the dish. Now, when it comes to the pappardelle with zucchini, I admit that I was really surprised at how good it was, admitting that I would have probably never ordered that dish, thinking that there would be big pieces of zucchini mixed with pasta. I was totally wrong: this was amazing, quite comforting in fact.
At that point I started to get full and was glad that I did not indulge too much on their semolina focaccia and sesame sourdough…
For her secondi, Jodi picked the eggplant terrine served with summer squash and castelrosso fonduta (castelrosso is a whole cow’s milk from Piedmont). This was a beautiful dish, colorful. Cooking eggplant, especially the skin is always a challenge as if not done properly, it can taste bitter. So, they blanche the skin so they can use it as a wrapper for the terrine. It was overall good, well made, but what I remember the most is that pickled eggplant that was superb!
On my side, I got the smoked baby goat with polenta. I was curious to see how that goat would be as, in the past, whenever I had goat, it was tough. At Vetri, depending on the size of the animal, they will smoke it between 2 to 4 hours before braising it. Although I did not really care about the house-milled soft polenta, the goat was amazing: tender, with a crispy skin, not dry at all. This is a must have!
Before dessert, they brought a palate cleanser. It was a blackberry fool, made with blackberry compote folded with whipped cream and topped with an Arnold Palmer granita made with black tea and lemon.
I could not wait for my dessert as it was their molten pistachio cake that I had last year. Very soft in the center, it is deliciously buttery and, even Jodi who does not like pistachio loved it. Served with a cherry gelato, it is one of the best desserts I ever had!
Jodi got a strawberry polenta short cake that was like a deconstructed version of a short cake. This was superb, but I admit that the surprising component was definitely the olive oil gelato that is a must try if you come across a place that proposes it. It is not that you get a mouthful of olive oil. No, it gives a creamy and rich taste to the gelato.
We got espresso and tea with our desserts, and, as if we were not already completely full, they brought a small plate with apricot macaron with lavender buttercream, blueberry rye and fudge with walnut.
I just needed a walk after that! Vetri Cucina never disappoints for sure. Not only the food is amazing there, but the service is exceptional, the staff describing each dish in a way that would make you want to try everything. I should point out that the vegetarian dishes are not an afterthought, being as crafted and elegant as the non-vegetarian ones. This is fine dining at its best, where you realize what hospitality means.
Enjoy (I really did)!
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Vetri Cucina - 1312 Spruce St, Philadelphia, PA 19107