When I read the paper from Pete Wells in the New York Times about Benno, it made me laugh: it represents why when people call me a food critic I cringe. No, I am not a critic just somebody who loves to eat and share his experience. Critics are often too elitist and disconnected from what the masses like, expecting perfection from start to finish when what one may call a perfect meal can differ from my own appreciation. Here is an excerpt from Pete Wells, New York Times:

“Dated was the word one friend used after going to Benno, and if you’ve eaten there, too, you’ll know why. It’s as if the past 15 years in food never happened. The menu seems to be stuck in some time between 1994, when Thomas Keller bought the French Laundry, and 2004, when he opened Per Se with a young Jonathan Benno leading the kitchen.”

I might not be a millennial but still, I did not find Benno dated. Located in The Evelyn Hotel, the eponymous restaurant of Chef Jonathan Benno received a coveted Michelin Star this year and, after dining there, I find it well deserved: excellent service and great food are the perfect combination for a meal in an Art Deco dining room with an impressive skylight, in a setting that does not feel stuffy at all.

The menu, with French and Italian inspired dishes would satisfy both vegetarian and non-vegetarian Diners, with a little edge for the latter. Here is what we had:

As usual, I looked for a whisky cocktail and ended up with the Irish Breakfast, an interesting take on Irish Whisky made with coffee bean-infused Powers Irish Whisky Gold, Aberna Amaro Siciliano and walnut bitters. For Jodi, it was moktail called the Citrus Blossom, made of orange blossom water, grapefruit juice and fresh mint.

At that point, they brought us some pretzel bread with honey mustard butter that was an interesting fusion of bread and butter, and pretzel and mustard, the honey mustard taste being predominant over the creaminess of the butter.

They then offered an amuse, vegetarian for Jodi and non-vegetarian for me. For Jodi, it was golden beets and radishes, and for me golden trout and caviar. The presentation was beautiful and a good way to introduce what was coming next.

The menu is split between snacks, appetizers, pasta and risottos, and mains. So at first, Jodi wanted to go directly with her main but I persuaded her to get falafel that was one of the snacks as otherwise she would have to just watch me eat my appetizer...There were 6 falafel that were accompanied by hummus and babaganouj, all quite good.

On my side, I went for the steak tartare, that was topped with sunny side up quail egg and seasoned with capers, cornichons, birds beak peppers, espelette crisp. Pretty classic and good, with a nice kick and acidity.

For the entrees, Jodi ordered the tagliatelle with white truffle and stracciatella cheese. Elegant and decadent dish for sure, it was sublime and they surely were not cheap with the truffle that they shaved at the table.

Tagliatelle with white truffle at Benno in NYC, NY

For me, I had difficulties to make up my mind as so many dishes looked very good. I finally settled for the duck prepared 3 ways: seared duck breast, duck sausage and foie gras. I simply loved it: each way the duck was cooked was delicious and delicate with the seared foie gras being my favorite. It was lying on top of lentils that were also good.

For dessert, knowing that Jodi is vegetarian, they graciously told her which desserts were vegetarian as many had gelatine in them. I thought that was a nice attention. So we decided to go for the apple cider rum baba. But this one was original, the baba sitting on top of an apple tatin, like a fusion of two of my favorite desserts.

So, overall, it was a great dinner: the food was delicious and the service very hospitable. Sorry Pete Wells, I will have to once again disagree with you: Benno deserves a visit and its Michelin Star.

Enjoy (I did)!

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Benno - 7 E 27th St, New York, NY 10016

Benno, Michelin Star in NYC, NY

I Just Want To Eat!